Cooking from Cans: Pasta with Butter, Onions and Caviar

Pasta with Butter, Onions and Caviar, originally uploaded by essgee51.

Technically, the caviar - not Beluga, just capelin from the corner store - came out of a jar, but the basic idea of a pantry-only dish applies. This super-easy dish will become a staple, I'm sure - it's filling, quick and luxurious without being heavy. I used good Amish butter for this, and may add a bit of sour cream next time. The measurements aren't hard and fast - I could see myself doubling them if I wanted something even richer.

• 1 dry cup pasta (whole-wheat rotini in this case)
• 1-2 T unsalted butter (used 1.3 T in this case)
• 1/4 c onion, chopped
• 2 T caviar

Cook the pasta in salted water. When it's ready, drain and set aside.

Melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook till they're softened, 5-7 minutes.

Mix the pasta with the butter and onions. Add the caviar and stir till fully incorporated. Serve.

Side Dish: Mushrooms and Tomatoes

Sausage, Mushrooms and Tomatoes, originally uploaded by essgee51.

Partially inspired by watching The Fellowship of the Ring the previous night, this dish is luxurious and yet soft enough for someone recovering from dental surgery. Served here with duck sausage from Canales.

• 1-2 T butter
• 1 large shallot (2-3 T)
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 8-10 oz. mushrooms, sliced
• 1 large tomato (about 1 cup), sliced
• salt and pepper to taste
• parsley for garnish

Heat butter till foam's dissipated. Saute shallot and garlic till soft, 2-3 minutes.

Add mushroom and tomato; season with salt and pepper, then cook till desired texture is reached (5-10 minutes for soft mushrooms and tomatoes with a bit of body to them - ymmv).

Adjust seasoning and serve.

Sauteed Summer Squash

Sauteed Summer Squash, originally uploaded by essgee51.

Still working my way through the previous weeks' market bounty. I got home pretty late last night and treated myself to a bubble bath after the gym, but also wanted to cook something quick and yummy. Solution? Saute squash in rich farmer's market butter with garlic and lots of salt and pepper. Hooray!

• 3-4 T butter
• 4 summer squash, sliced into 1/4-1/2 in. rounds
• 2 T garlic, chopped
• lots of salt and pepper
• 1-2 T lemon juice
• 1-2 T parsley, chopped, for garnish

Melt butter in a pan over medium heat. Add garlic and saute for 1-2 minutes, till fragrant.

Add squash. Season with salt and pepper, and cook till squash reaches desired consistency, 5-10 minutes, turning now and then. (I covered the pan for a few minutes to get the steaming process underway and shrink everything more quickly.)

Remove from heat. Adjust seasoning. Pour lemon juice over squash and garnish with parsley before serving.

Poached Chicken with Lemon Sauce

Chicken and Leeks, originally uploaded by essgee51.

Another quick, easy dinner via Bittman. Used more leeks than called for (because I love them) and didn't reduce the sauce (too hungry), but it still turned out very good.

• 3 tbsp. butter (originally 4)
• 3 medium leeks, diced, with some of the green (originally 2) - about 2-1/2 cups
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• /12 cup water
• 1/2 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped
• 1-1/2 lbs. chicken breast, cut into 1-1/2 in. chunks
• 2-1/2 tbsp. lemon juice
• salt and pepper to taste
• parsley, chopped, for garnish

Put 2 tbsp. of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When it's hot, add the leeks and cook till they're softened, about 5-7 minutes.

Add wine, stock and herb; bring to a boil and let bubble for 1-2 minutes.

Add chicken, turn heat down to medium-low. Cook till done, 7-10 minutes (original recipe: cook till almost done, remove from pan, turn heat to high, reduce sauce to 3/4 cup, re-lower heat, return meat to pan, then proceed.). Add the rest of the butter and the lemon juice, a bit at a time.

Sprinkle with salt and pepper, adjust seasoning, then serve.

Dinner Component: Braised Endives II

Dinner, originally uploaded by essgee51.

Last night's repast was simple but hearty and flavorful. We basically repeated this soy-ginger mackerel braise (the sauce was delicious over rice) and quickly braised some endives (more quickly and simply than I did here, hence the rewriting of a recipe).

• 1-1/2 tbsp. butter
• 3 fat endives, cored and halved
• 1-1/2 tbsp. lemon juice
• 1 tbsp. water
• salt and pepper to taste

Brown endives in butter over medium heat, about 5-7 minutes.

Add juice and water, then cover and simmer till tender, anywhere from 15-25 minutes depending on how you like them.

Adjust seasoning.

Mirepoix Tomato Sauce

Alright, not quite, since the proportions of onion, celery and carrot are equal. But it's a quick, simple sauce, straight out of Bittman, and its aromatic sweetness was the perfect counterpoint to the chicken breasts in ancho chile sauce that John made to go with it.

• 2 tbsp. butter
• 1/2 cup onions, diced
• 1/2 cup celery, diced
• 1/2 cup carrots, diced
• 1 28 oz. can tomatoes
• salt and pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a pan over medium-low heat. Add the onions, celery and carrots and cook till tender, 5-10 minutes.

Crush the tomatoes and add them to the pot, with salt and pepper to taste. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook till the tomatoes break down and the mixture is saucy, about 10-25 minutes.

Serve over pasta or meat.

Roasted, Mashed Vegetables: Potatoes, Carrots and Garlic

Yes, I know it's not a very appetizing picture, but I was grumpy and hungry. And seriously, it tasted great.

I had a couple of teeth extracted last week, and am thankfully past the protein-shakes-and-pudding phase of things. Over the past few days, I've been eating a lot of chicken tinola (may (re)post my current favorite recipe later), mashed potatoes (courtesy of John) and sundry soft food. Yesterday, I found the idea for mashing roasted vegetables somewhere in a wisdom tooth extraction thread on the internet, and decided to try it. Simple, delicious, and definitely something to return to even after my mouth fully heals.

• 2-4 tbsp. olive oil (not sure how much exactly - enough to coat the vegetables when tossed)
• 1 lb. carrots, peeled and chopped
• 1-1/2 - 2 lb. potatoes, peeled if you want to peel them (I didn't) and chopped
• 1-1/2 head garlic (about 10-12 cloves), peeled
• 6 long sprigs thyme
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1-2 tbsp. butter
• 1/4 cup whole milk

Combine vegetables, olive oil, thyme, salt and pepper in a roasting pan, tossing till the vegetables are evenly coated.

Roast in an oven at 350 till vegetables are tender and easily pierced by a fork (1 - 1-1/2 hours).

Mash with a fork, ricer or whatever, adding butter and milk till desired consistency and richness is reached. Adjust seasoning if necessary.

Dinner: Pasta with Butter and Chives + Peas with Olive Oil and Mint

A quick, light dinner, made even tastier with the addition of fresh herbs from the garden. John made the peas (from this recipe), while I made the pasta - they were ready at about the same time. The dish was one of my grad school go-tos, but having fresh chives instead of dried makes a lovely difference.

Pasta with Butter and Chives

• 12 oz. pasta (used a box of tricolor rotini)
• 2 tbsp. butter, or more to taste
• about 1/3 cup chopped chives (a healthy handful from our flourishing plant)
• salt and pepper to taste

Bring a pot of salted water to a rolling boil and cook the pasta till al dente. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot.

Add butter, chives and salt and pepper to taste (be generous!). Mix well and enjoy.

From the Garden: Pasta with Wild Onions and Chives

So simple and yet so good. Cut a fat handful of wild onions from the garden, added 10-12 chive stalks from John's plant (raw materials pictured here), sauteed them in butter, added some leftover pasta, then seasoned with salt and pepper. Next time, I'll saute them more - till they're meltingly tender versus a bit al dente. Nonetheless, the dish made a yummy and satisfying afternoon snack for two.

Getting to Know You: Enoki

The corner store recently revamped and expanded its veggie section. Though I have yet to visit, John brought me proof of the change in the shape of a 7 oz. bag of enoki (which, surprisingly, comes bagged with its roots intact). While most of the recipes produced by a quick Google search used them raw in salads or as soup garnishes, I thought I'd give them the standard mushroom treatment first: saute with butter and shallots. They turned out well, crunchy and flavorful, like umami-filled bean sprouts, with a sweet richness from the other ingredients. With a bit of salt and black pepper, they were a very good side dish for the soy-braised mackerel and rice we had for dinner.

• 1 tbsp. butter
• 1 medium shallot, diced (about 3 tbsp.)
• 7.05 oz. enoki, trimmed about 2 in. above the root and separated

Heat butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add shallot and saute till soft, about 3-5 minutes.

Add enoki. Sprinkle lightly with salt and cook, stirring often, till slightly softened but still crunchy (about 5 minutes on my stove). Season to taste and serve hot or warm.

Butter-Braised Leeks

A quick but hearty post-gym dinner. Followed this Bittman-based recipe, substituting 1/2 cup of water for the tomatoes and reducing the resultant liquid quite a bit. Delicious with buttery couscous and tangy-sweet tomatoes - also reminded me why leeks are one of my favorite things.

Pasta With Leek Sauce

Mr. Bento bears two helpings of this treat today (accompanied by John's delicious parsnip and Parmesan soup -- recipe courtesy of one version of the New Covent Garden Soup Co. Book of Soups -- and 5 oz. of sardines in tomato sauce). It's a riff on a recipe from Chowhound, which in turn riffs on a recipe from Marcella Hazan. While I initially balked at the amount of butter and the lengthy cooking time, this turned out wonderfully -- this and the soup made for sweet, earthy dinner on a near-winter night (and of course, there were leftovers for today). My version below:

5 medium-sized leeks, white and light-green parts cut into 1/4" rounds (will use 1-2 more next time)
1 tbsp. vegetable oil
3 tbsp. butter
6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1/4 cup half and half (original recipe called for 1/2 cup heavy cream)
1 (13.2 oz) box whole wheat pasta (used penne this time)
salt and freshly-ground pepper
2-4 oz. (or more to taste) freshly-grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Clean leeks by soaking in a bowl of water or using a salad spinner. Remove excess water, but don't dry them too thoroughly.

Put oil and butter in a skillet over medium heat. Saute garlic till it's just starting to brown. Remove garlic (I saved mine for roasting and having separately, but may try leaving it in next time).

Add leeks to the skillet. Sprinkle them with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, till they're extremely soft and almost meltingly tender (about 45 minutes - 1 hour). If they start looking dry, add 2-3 tablespoons of water at a time, then stir. Meanwhile, cook pasta in salted water till al dente.

NOTE: Since my leeks were already turning brown and we were getting hungry, I skipped this step. Turn the heat to high and cook the leeks till they're a pale nut color, flipping them occasionally.

Add half-and-half to the skillet and reduce for about a minute. Season liberally with pepper. Add cooked pasta to skillet (or transfer sauce mixture into pasta pot, whichever you prefer) and mix everything together; then, add a generous amount of grated cheese (enough to ensure a clingy, non-liquidy sauce) and mix again. Correct seasoning and serve.

Today's Bento: I Know My [Roast] Chicken

Didn't bring Mr. Bento today - just two small plastic containers: one full of salad greens and homemade balsamic vinaigrette dressing, the other loaded with roasted chicken and vegetables (carrots, potatoes and a nice, plump clove of garlic).

Brining the meat for 24 hours (have to get the recipe from John at some point; he certainly knows both his brines and his chickens) worked wonders. The bird was tender and moist -- ever so slightly tangy but not salty (even the breast meat, some of which I packed alongside a wing for today's lunch). The herbed butter (about 2 tbsp. + 8 sage leaves + salt and pepper, chopped and mixed in a food processer) we rubbed under its skin beforehand probably helped too.

We roasted the bird - breast-down for the first 30 minutes - on a bed of potatoes, carrots, garlic and onions for somewhere between an hour and an hour and a half, basting occasionally, till the meat thermometer told us we could stop. As noted, the meat was very good; the vegetables, alas, were a bit underdone, but that was our fault for not chopping them into small enough chunks.

UPDATE: Brine recipe is here, and in the comment below.

Today's Bento

The office is particularly cold today, so I'm warming my stiff little fingers (alas, couldn't find YouTube footage of "Here We Are Nowhere") with a brief what's-for-lunch post. Mr. Bento's contents:

• red grapes
• braised leeks (2 medium-sized leeks halved, then cut into 4-inch lengths. Saute in a tbsp of butter for about 5 minutes or until browning, turning once or twice and seasoning with salt and pepper; add 1/4-1/3 cup chicken broth or water, bring to a boil, then turn the heat to low, cover and simmer for 20 mins or till very tender. Remove from heat, drizzle with lemon juice (or, if you're packing it, just throw a couple of lemon slices in alongside)
• rice
• sardines in tomato sauce (straight out of the tin - was too lazy to saute them with onions and garlic)
  

I also have an orange, a banana and maybe 1/4 cup of leftover garlic cracker nuts in reserve.

Spaghetti with Leeks and Tomatoes

Behold - a spare bunch of leeks! At first I considered a riff on spaghetti with ramps, but realized the leeks would have to cook significantly longer. Ended up making a delicious variant on this Bittman recipe. Major changes: halved the amount of pasta (because I never seem to have enough veggies when I follow these types of recipes), added a shallot (because I have scads available) and omitted the parsley (didn't have any). Yum nonetheless - even cold, when I brought some leftovers for lunch and was too lazy and hungry to heat them. May add pancetta (as in this recipe) next time, too - it'll probably contrast nicely with the sweet vegetables.

• 3 large leeks - trimmed, cleaned, halved and chopped (not too finely)
• 4 tbsp. olive oil or butter (used the former this time)
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
• 1 shallot, coarsely chopped
• about 1 cup grape tomatoes, chopped
• 1/2 heaping tsp. red pepper flakes
• salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste
• 6 oz. whole wheat spaghetti

Put 2 tbsp. olive oil in a pan on medium-high heat. Saute the garlic for about a minute (just till it begins to brown), then remove it. Add the leeks and red pepper flakes; saute the leeks, stirring now and then, till they wilt (about 7-10 minutes).

Lower the heat to medium and add tomatoes. Cook another 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, till leeks begin to brown. Season with salt and pepper.

Cook pasta till tender then drain, reserving 1/2 cup of pasta liquid. Toss the pasta, leek mixture and remaining 2 tbsp. olive oil, adding some of the pasta water if the sauce seems too dry (mine didn't need any). Correct seasoning and serve.

Potato and Leek Soup

My tag cloud is making me want to vary my cooking habits somewhat, so I acquired a big bag of potatoes from Peapod this weekend and came home early tonight in order to get some cooking in. After taking an ingredient inventory, I figured the best way to use up the largest number of perishables would be to cook some chicken stock from scratch (4 cups water, 4 chicken wings, 1 large celery stalk, 1 medium carrot, 2 small onions, about 1 tsp of peppercorns plus salt and pepper to taste, brought to a boil then simmered for 30-40 minutes), then strain it into the recipe below to make a standard potato and leek soup.

• 3 medium-to-large leeks, white and light green parts only, chopped
• 1 and 1/2 large potatoes, chopped into small cubes
• 2 tsbp. butter
• 4 cups chicken stock
• salt and freshly-ground pepper to taste

Put the butter in a Dutch oven or large pot on medium heat. When it's melted, add the leeks and potatoes. Stir for a few minutes; season with salt and pepper to taste.

Add stock. Bring to a boil, then lower heat. Simmer till vegetables are tender, about 20-30 minutes. Puree if you like. Correct seasoning and serve.

NOTE: I overcooked the potatoes a bit - they're still solid, but soft and without the slight bite I like - and so will probably puree some of the soup instead of leaving it be.

Linguini with Spinach, Butter and Cream

I had yet another 10 oz. bag of spinach to use up, so I decided to try this recipe (only in the first edition of Bittman). Came out pretty well, but why am I so resistant to learning that 1 lb. of pasta is a TON (figuratively, for sure) of food? Next time, I'll probably add more spinach or decrease the amount of pasta - just as I said I would in the last similar recipe I posted. Ah well.

• 10 oz. fresh spinach, washed, trimmed and roughly chopped
• 4 tbsp. butter
• salt and freshly-ground pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup heavy cream, light cream or half-and-half (used the latter)
• 1 lb. linguini (Bittman also recommends fettucini or spaghetti; I used whole wheat, though he didn't specify one way or another)
• 2-3 tbsp. pasta cooking water, reserved
• 1 cup freshly-grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for passing around (Bittman sticks with 1 cup total)
  

In a pasta pot-type piece of cookware, salt water and bring it to a boil. Add the pasta and cook till it's tender but firm.

Meanwhile, melt 2 tbsp. of the butter in a large skillet that can be covered. Add the spinach, along with salt and pepper to taste. Cover, reduce the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, till the spinach is very tender - about 10 min. Uncover, add the cream and cook gently for 5 minutes.

When the pasta's just about done, put the remaining 2 tbsp. of butter in a large, warm bowl. Add a couple of tbsp. of the cooking water. Drain the pasta and toss it with the butter and half the cheese.

Add the spinach sauce (After the step above, I tossed the pasta in the pan with the other half of the cheese - Bittman prefers reserving the extra 1/2 cup to pass at the table) and serve, passing around even more grated cheese.

Braised Leeks with Tomatoes

I finally caved and bought the completely revised edition of the indispensable How to Cook Everything. One of the best features of the new version is a vastly expanded set of variations on basic recipes - including a nice alternative to one of my favorites, "Leeks Braised in Butter or Oil."

I adore leeks - they're one of my favorite vegetables, and I've cooked slight variations on Bittman's base recipe many a time. These particular ones were a rather sad three bunches - none of them over 1 in. in diameter, and with perhaps three inches of usable white and light green at maximum. That said, even teensy, aging leeks taste lovely, and the recipe variant let me make use of a leftover half-can of Muir Glen tomatoes. Herewith, my riff on Bittman's version (which leaves out the parsley garnish and the thyme):

• 3 bunches of leeks, trimmed and cleaned and cut into 3-inch sections
• 3 tbsp. butter
• salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste
• 1 cup of chopped canned tomatoes, with some of the juice (Bittman prefers a single fresh one)
  
• 1 tbsp. lemon juice (about 1/4 lemon)

Heat butter in a pan or skillet over medium heat. When it melts, add the leeks. Liberally (the amount, not the political persuasion) sprinkle them with salt and pepper and cook, turning once or twice, for about 5 minutes (they should be lightly browned).

Add the tomatoes and their juice; bring the mixture to a boil. Then, turn the heat to low, cover, and cook till the leeks are tender (about 12 minutes in the case of these slim little things, usually 20-25 minutes). Uncover - if you think the mixture's too liquidy, simmer for a few minutes more (I love broth so I don't bother).

Sprinkle lemon juice over the leeks; correct seasoning and serve.

NOTE: This turned out wonderfully, with the partially-caramelized sweetness of the leeks, the roasted-tasting richness of the tomatoes and the tang of the lemon juice all coming together nicely. Will definitely try this again.

Cheesy Catfish Chowder

So catfish was on sale at Peapod again. While I typically make catfish sinegang or Bittman's "Catfish Poached with Ginger and Soy Sauce," it was time to branch out. To the internet! And behold - this recipe (via Allrecipes.com) came to light. Did I have everything? Close enough. A search through the fridge produced a few stalks of limp celery and a half-bag of forlorn, drying carrots; an IM sent across the hall revealed both a baking potato and a large container of cow juice that I could borrow. Thus came about my first attempt at a milk-based soup - the version below incorporates my modifications.

• 2 tbsp. butter
• 1 medium onion, diced (about 1 cup; more is fine)
  
• 1/2 cup diced celery
• 1 cup diced carrots
  
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 1 large baking potato, cut into 1/2-3/4 in. cubes
  
• 3 cups whole milk, divided
• 1/3 cup flour
• 1 tsp. celery salt
• 1 tsp. salt + more to taste (used maybe 1-1/4 tsp. total)
  
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
  
• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper + more to taste (used maybe 3/4 tsp. total)
  
• 1 bay leaf
  
• 1- 1/2 lbs. catfish fillets, cut into 1 inch pieces
• about 1 cup grated cheese (this time I used a mix of Parmesan and Parmigiano-Reggiano)
  

In a Dutch oven over medium heat, melt butter and saute onions, carrots and celery for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, till the vegetables soften a bit.

Add potatoes. Cook 10 or so minutes, so vegetables are soft but still firm.

In a small bowl, whisk the flour into 1-1/2 cups of milk. Add to Dutch oven and mix.

Add the rest of the milk, the salt, celery salt, pepper and cayenne pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens - maybe 5-7 minutes. Taste and correct seasoning.

Add catfish. Cook another 5 or so minutes till fish flakes easily on a fork but isn't overdone.

Stir in cheese; cook another minute or so, then turn off heat. Serve with more grated cheese, if you like.

NOTE: This came out wonderfully - vegetables were cooked through but not mushy; the catfish was moist and soft and chewy. A bowl apiece is more than enough dinner for myself, John and Bradley; the rest is currently cooling on my counter.