Beef Stroganoff à la Bittman

Yes, there was another hiatus (family emergency). Yes, I'm back. Hi!

This quick but luxurious recipe was the perfect treat for New Year's Eve dinner, and went wonderfully with some rice and a glass of dry sparkling wine. I halved Bittman's recipe, but used the full 8 oz. of mushrooms, which produced enough for 2-3 people. I also splurged on a wonderful piece of beyond fork-tender beef from Canales. Perfect way to fortify myself for 2012.

• 2 T unsalted butter
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 8 oz. mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
• salt and pepper
• .8 lb. beef tenderloin, sliced into 1-1/2 in. pieces
• 1 tomato, seeded and chopped
• 1/2 c. beef broth
• 1-1/2 t Dijon mustard
• 1/4 c sour cream
• dill or parsley, chopped, for garnish

Melt the butter in a Dutch oven or heavy skillet over medium to medium-high heat. Add the onion and mushrooms. Season them with salt and pepper then cook, stirring occasionally, till the onions are very soft but not brown, about 10 min.

Add the meat and cook for about a minute.

Add the tomato, beef broth and mustard. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles steadily, then cover and cook till the meat is tender, about 5 minutes.

Stir in sour cream. Adjust seasoning, then garnish with your choice of herb.

In Progress: Souse Soup

After discovering what a rich broth pig's ears make (a byproduct of this recipe), I wanted to try to make a soup. I started with this recipe, increased the amount of liquid (enough to cover the meat), seeded and removed the ribs from the Scotch bonnet and added whatever spare vegetables I had lying around. Though I had my reservations about midway through the process, it turned out quite good - the broth was rich, and the Scotch bonnet imparted flavor and a gentle, lingering heat. The real surprise was the meat I scraped off the tail bones: succulent, tender and tasty. Will definitely be making this one again.

For future iterations: While the broth is rich and turned pretty flavorful in the end, I'd like to bring some more depth to it - whether by sauteeing the aromatics first, or adding more/different seasoning. I'd also like to add more vegetables to it, besides wilting a handful or two of baby spinach as I reheat bowls of the soup.

• 3 lbs. pig's ears and tails, ears cut into smaller pieces (this iteration used 1 lb. ears, 2 lb. tails)
• 1 pork shoulder bone (byproduct of the bone-in butt we got for the black beans and pork)
• 8 c water, enough to cover
• 1/4 c cider vinegar
• 1 Scotch bonnet pepper, seeded and ribs removed
• 10 cloves garlic, minced (about 3 heaping T)
• 1 onion, minced (about 1 heaping c)
• 2/3 c celery, diced (about 4 small stalks)
• 2/3 c carrot, diced (about 4 small ones)
• 2/3 c green pepper, diced (1 large)
• 10 oz. mushrooms
• 2 T Goya adobo seasoning
• 1/4 c lime juice (about 2 fat limes)

Put the meat, water, vinegar, hot pepper, garlic and onions in a large pot. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, till meat is soft and gelatinous, about 2-3 hours.

Chop vegetables and add them to the pot. Cook till they're tender, about 15-25 minutes.

Add adobo seasoning. Stir and wait about five minutes.

Remove from heat, stir in lime juice, and serve over white rice.

Side Dish: Mushrooms and Tomatoes

Sausage, Mushrooms and Tomatoes, originally uploaded by essgee51.

Partially inspired by watching The Fellowship of the Ring the previous night, this dish is luxurious and yet soft enough for someone recovering from dental surgery. Served here with duck sausage from Canales.

• 1-2 T butter
• 1 large shallot (2-3 T)
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 8-10 oz. mushrooms, sliced
• 1 large tomato (about 1 cup), sliced
• salt and pepper to taste
• parsley for garnish

Heat butter till foam's dissipated. Saute shallot and garlic till soft, 2-3 minutes.

Add mushroom and tomato; season with salt and pepper, then cook till desired texture is reached (5-10 minutes for soft mushrooms and tomatoes with a bit of body to them - ymmv).

Adjust seasoning and serve.

Catching Up: Slow-Cooker Navy Bean Stew II

Dinner, originally uploaded by essgee51.

Though we made this last weekend, the rest of this rich, savory stew also served well as soft food for this weekend's recuperation from dental surgery. Based on this variant, but still further simplified - we discovered that we could skip even the fast boil of the beans if we cooked on high for a few hours.

• 1 lb. navy beans
• 1 ham hock, scored
• 1 lb. kielbasa sausage, cut in 1 in. pieces
• 1-2 c carrots, cut in 1-2 in. pieces
• 1-2 c celery, cut in 1 in. slices
• 8 oz. mushrooms, stems removed and cut, if large
• 1 onion, sliced
• 5-8 cloves garlic, smashed
• bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay leaf)
• 6 c liquid (all water, this time)
• salt and pepper to taste

Put everything in the slow cooker (see below).

Cook on high for 3-4 hours, till hock meat is falling off the bone and beans are tender. Adjust seasoning and enjoy.

Lengua Estofada

Lengua was always one of my favorite childhood dishes - my lola used to put extra button mushrooms in it for me. Finally I decided to try my own version of it - not a recreation of the beefy richness I remember, but something to tweak and turn into an occasional indulgence. I started from a recipe in Let's Cook with Nora, and made several changes - most notably trebling the amount of mushrooms (what? I love them). It turned out wonderfully - the meat was tender, the sauce (more of a broth by thickness) rich and tangy but sweet from the carrots and leeks. I may try a more umami-laden version in the future, but this recipe is a keeper.

Since this is the first time I've ever tried this (and since I had an epic, 20-minute battle with the leathery outer coating of the tongue), I've felt obliged to document (and share said documentation of) the process.

• 1 beef tongue (2.6 lbs. or so)
• 1/4 cup vinegar
• 1-2 T salt
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 2 medium onions, quartered
• 1 head garlic, cloves peeled and crushed
• 1 t peppercorns
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 clove
• 2 carrots, cut into rough chunks
• 3 leeks, cleaned and sliced
• 1 28 oz. can whole tomatoes, including juice
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 1 to 1-1/2 cup water
• 3-4 cups mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed (used a mix of white and cremini)

Here are most of the assembled ingredients.

Rub tongue with salt and vinegar (pre-boiled tongue below - doesn't look very different after this step). Rinse, then boil for 10 minutes.

Scrape off leathery coating on surface. (Mind, this took me 20 minutes with three different knives. It got pretty gnarly in the end, but I triumphed. It probably would have been much easier if I'd boiled the tongue for the whole time first, but I wanted it to braise with the sauce.)

Brown tongue in oil (5-10 minutes.)

Transfer to plate, then brown the onions and the garlic.

Return tongue to pot, then add everything but the mushrooms. (I may try adding less water next time.) Bring to a boil then simmer gently till the tongue is tender (recipes say three hours, it took me more like four).

Slice tongue into pieces and set aside (when I gave John a taste at this point, he said it was just like brisket or pot roast).

Strain sauce (skipped this step). Add mushrooms; turn heat to medium or high and cook for a few minutes, till sauce is reduced and mushrooms are done. Return tongue to pot and warm through. 

Serve with rice and garnish with parsley. Enjoy!

Slow Cooker Lamb Shanks and Navy Beans

Slow Cooker Lamb Shanks and Navy Beans, originally uploaded by essgee51.

The slow cooker is my new favorite thing. We prepped and started this last night, went out, came back, slept and woke to this savory, meaty richness. We used this recipe as a jumping-off point. Our version (below) completely filled the cooker (thankfully, I decided to buy only two shanks at the last minute!) and produced at least four cups of spare liquid/fat. Now that we have a solid base recipe, next time, we may try a bit less liquid, more seasoning (it's too rich and savory to be bland, but could perhaps use a bit of zing), some herbs and perhaps more vegetables.

• 1 lb. navy beans, rinsed and picked over
• 2 lamb shanks (about 4 lbs.), cut in thirds
• 1-2 tbsp. olive oil (will probably omit this next time - there's more than enough fat in the finished product)
• 1 huge carrot (about 1 lb.), roughly chopped (will add more next time)
• 4 large portobello mushrooms, roughly chopped
• 1 medium onion (about 1 cup), chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 bay leaf
• 6 cups liquid (hot water or stock)
• salt and pepper to taste

Soak the beans. We forgot to soak them overnight, so we followed the quick soak method on the bag:

• boil for two minutes
• remove from heat
• cover and let stand for an hour
• rinse.

Boil the beans (in new water) for a half-hour. We may skip this step next time and just adjust slow cooking time accordingly.

Drain the beans and place them in the slow cooker. Add all the other ingredients, then season (we started with about a tsp. of freshly ground black pepper and a tbsp. of salt). Cook on high for an hour (we had to leave, so it was more like half an hour), turn the slow cooker to low, and let cook for 8-10 hours (more like 12 in our case, because we slept in).

Adjust seasoning and enjoy!

Slow Cooker Beef Stew

Slow Cooker Beef Stew, originally uploaded by essgee51.

With a Christmas Amazon gift card from John's aunt and uncle, we finally bought a slow cooker!

Our first project, based on this recipe, was a success - the meat was tender, and the sauce was rich, silky and savory in a way that only slow-cooked food can be. Next time, we may experiment with more/different herbs -- and definitely add more mushrooms. Tweaks below.

• 2 tbsp. oil (used peanut this time)
• 2 celery stalks, diced
• 1 carrot, diced
• 1 yellow onion, diced
• 2 garlic cloves,chopped
• 1 tsp. fresh thyme (orig. 1/2 tsp. dried, but in an unusual reversal, I didn't have any)
• 2 tbsp. tomato paste
• 1 cup red wine
• 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard
• 1/3 c. all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed
• 1/2 tsp. black pepper, plus more as needed
• 1 (3-pound) boneless chuck roast
• 1/2 pound button mushrooms, quartered
• 2 c. low-sodium beef broth
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 lb. frozen peas
• fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish

Put the oil in a large pan over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the celery, carrots, onion and thyme. Cook till the carrots begin to soften, about 7-10 minutes.

Add tomato paste and stir to coat. Cook another 3-5 minutes or so, till the tomato paste starts tasting a bit roasted. Add wine and mustard, then stir to combine. Bring to a simmer and cook till wine's reduced by about half, 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Mix flour, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Cut the roast into 1-1/2 in. cubes. Put the meat and mushrooms in the flour mixture and toss to coat.

Put the meat, mushrooms and any excess flour into the slow cooker. Add the wine and vegetable mixture, and a bay leaf. Turn the slow cooker to high and cook till meat is pierced easily by a fork, 5-6 hours.

Add peas and cook till heated through. Garnish with parsley and serve.

Beef Stew a la Bittman

Beef Stew a la Bittman, originally uploaded by essgee51.

While I typically make stew the lazy way, this time I bothered to brown the meat. It made a big difference, and I'll definitely be making the time investment in the future. The stew turned out to be rich, comforting and flavorful, but next time I think I'll use a fattier cut of meat and up the umami quotient (perhaps with Worcestershire or soy sauce, anchovies and/or tomato paste). Recipe, with my modifications, below.

• 2-4 tbsp. neutral oil (used grapeseed - started with 2 tbsp. but had to keep adding more because of the lean meat)
• 2-1/2 lbs. stew beef, in chunks
• 1 clove garlic, crushed + 4-5 cloves (1 heaping tbsp.), chopped
• 2 large onions, cut into eighths
• 3 tbsp. flour
• 3 cups liquid (used 2 cups beef broth from a very good concentrate I found + 1 cup red wine)
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp. fresh thyme
• 6 small/medium potatoes, cut into 1-2 in. chunks (used Yukon Gold)
• 5 medium carrots, cut into 1-2 in. chunks
• 8 oz. mushrooms, quartered
• 1 10-oz. package frozen peas and pearl onions

Heat large pot or Dutch oven on medium-high for 2-3 minutes;. Add oil, then wait another minute. Add crushed garlic clove, then remove once it begins to turn golden-brown, about a minute.

Brown meat, working in batches and seasoning the meat with salt and pepper as you go. Remove meat and reserve, then drain excess oil if necessary (wasn't in my case, since the beef was very lean).

Lower heat to medium. Cook onions, stirring often, till softened, about 10 minutes.

Add flour and stir till completely incorporated, about 1-2 minutes.

Return meat to pot. Add liquid, thyme and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then lower heat, cover, and let simmer for 30 minutes undisturbed.

Add carrots, potatoes and mushrooms to pot. Cool till vegetables are tender, anywhere from 30-60 minutes (closer to 60 on my finicky stove). Adjust texture of sauce to taste, adding liquid if you want it soupier and boiling for 5 or so minutes if you want to reduce it.

Add peas, pearl onions, chopped garlic. Simmer for another 10 or so minutes, till peas are warmed up and garlic has infused stew. Adjust seasoning, then serve.

Getting to Know You: Enoki

The corner store recently revamped and expanded its veggie section. Though I have yet to visit, John brought me proof of the change in the shape of a 7 oz. bag of enoki (which, surprisingly, comes bagged with its roots intact). While most of the recipes produced by a quick Google search used them raw in salads or as soup garnishes, I thought I'd give them the standard mushroom treatment first: saute with butter and shallots. They turned out well, crunchy and flavorful, like umami-filled bean sprouts, with a sweet richness from the other ingredients. With a bit of salt and black pepper, they were a very good side dish for the soy-braised mackerel and rice we had for dinner.

• 1 tbsp. butter
• 1 medium shallot, diced (about 3 tbsp.)
• 7.05 oz. enoki, trimmed about 2 in. above the root and separated

Heat butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add shallot and saute till soft, about 3-5 minutes.

Add enoki. Sprinkle lightly with salt and cook, stirring often, till slightly softened but still crunchy (about 5 minutes on my stove). Season to taste and serve hot or warm.

Leek, Potato and Mushroom Soup

The soup that keeps on giving - just finished the last bit today, but it's featured in two other packed lunches this week and a few meals at home besides. The recipe is courtesy of the talented Flit, who I encountered via the Mr. Bento Flickr pool; my halved and tweaked version is below. My first attempt turned out extremely tasty, though a bit watery, partially because I had more stock than expected. Next time, I'll lessen the amount of liquid (and probably reduce what I do use a bit more beforehand); I'll probably also keep the increased leek and carrot proportions and cut down the dairy a bit.

• 1 tbsp. butter
• 3 large leeks, white and pale green parts, sliced (about 4 cups)
• 2 medium-sized carrots, diced (about 1 cup)
• 8 oz. mushrooms
• 2 russet potatoes, diced (about 2. cups)
• 5-6 cups chicken stock (homemade this time - next time I'll use less and reduce what I do use)
• 1 tsp. dry dill
• 1 tsp. dry thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste
• 3/4 cup half-and-half (will try less, maybe 1/2 cup next time)

Over medium or medium-low heat, sprinkle the leeks and carrots with salt and sweat in the butter till soft, but not colored (around 5-10 min.).

Add mushrooms, potatoes, black pepper, dill, thyme and bay leaf; then add enough broth to cover by 1-2 inches. Simmer till potatoes are tender (around 20-30 min.).

Remove from heat. Stir in half-and-half.

If possible, let sit a few hours/overnight, then reheat before eating.

Marinated Mushrooms

UPDATE (25 Jan. 2010): Replaced not-so-good shot from the night before with a superior action pic from my desk.

At first I was going to try Bittman's simple, classic take on this dish, but was unsure whether the mushrooms would last a half-day in Mr. Bento without turning brown and sad. So I tried a variation on this version. The result was a sharper, better-tasting flashback to the the marinated mushrooms I used to pick up from many a random deli counter when I craved them. Bonus: a cup or so of light mushroom broth, ready to turn into rice water or a soup base or something equally yummy.

• 8 oz. white button mushrooms, stemmed and cut into chunks
• 1/2 cup water
• 2-1/2 tbsp. olive oil
• 2 tsp. minced garlic
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/2 tsp. black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. thyme
• 2 thin scallions, sliced

Bring water to a boil. Add mushrooms and simmer for 5-10 minutes, so they're starting to soften but aren't going limp.

Meanwhile, whisk together all the remaining ingredients. Add the mushrooms and toss till they're thoroughly coated. Taste, adjusting seasoning if necessary.

Refrigerate overnight and enjoy the next day.

Mushroom Ragout with Pasta

Haven't tried this one yet and am not sure where it came from - just found it in my Moleskine, dated Nov. 14, 2008. I think I was at my sister's that weekend, and paging through her cookbooks - it may be from one of her Martha Stewarts.... Ah well. The point is, it sounds easy and good. Possible changes are marked below, in italics.

• 4 slices bacon, cut crosswise 1/2 in. (pfft - just four slices? Unlikely! Maybe 3-4 oz. diced pancetta instead?)
  
• 1 small onion (probably make this large), finely chopped
• 20 oz. cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered
• 20 oz. button mushrooms, trimmed and quartered
• 1/4 cup tomato paste (see below for possible substitution)
  
• 2 cups water
• 2 tsp. dried thyme
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
• 2 tsp. red wine vinegar
• 3/4 lb. spaghetti
• shaved Parmesan for garnish

In a 5 qt. sauce pan, cook the bacon over medium heat till it's crispy (about 5 min.). Set aside.

Saute onion till golden (about 2 min.). Add mushrooms, cover, and cook till juices evaporate (about 20 min.).

Stir in tomato paste, thyme and water. Cover, then cook till sauce has thickened (around 10-15 minutes). (May just use a can of tomatoes instead of the paste and water - just hand-crush them and cook till saucy.)

Stir in parsley and vinegar. Add bacon.

Meanwhile, cook pasta till al dente. Drain, then return to pot.

Toss pasta with ragout. Garnish with cheese and bacon.

Chicken Thighs with Leeks and Shiitakes

I love leeks, and mushrooms, and chicken thighs, so this is really a win-win-WIN all around. The original recipe is here; I re-fatted it a bit because chicken skin is awesome and doubled the amount of leeks because...well, because I love leeks.

I've also been considering a variant where, instead of using olive oil, I render some diced pancetta, reserve it for garnish, and use the fat from that instead. If this ever comes to be, results will be posted in the comments section.

• 2 chicken thighs - bone-in or boneless, but with that lovely skin intact, TYVM
• 1 tbsp. all-purpose flour
• 3 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 2 large leeks, white and light green parts only, diced
• 4 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
• 1/2 cup chicken broth
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1/8 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. minced fresh tarragon or 1/2 teaspoon dried

Sprinkle chicken with flour, and reserve the excess.

Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer the chicken to a plate and cover it with foil.

Add the remaining 1 teaspoon oil, leeks and mushrooms to the pan. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender, 6 to 8 minutes.

Sprinkle the reserved flour over the vegetables and stir to coat. Add broth, wine and salt and bring to a simmer. Return the chicken to the pan and simmer, turning the chicken occasionally, until it is cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in tarragon.